Saturday 1 May 2010

A bit more of Samarkand and the utterly amazing Tashkent....................

This may be the last entry for a little while as tomorrow (Sunday) we head off towards Kyrgyzstan and out of the 2 weeks we have in Kyrgyzstan I think we have 3 or 4 nights in a hotel and the remaining time we will be camping in the mountains or staying in yurts so may not be near an internet source for some time.  
Just a little bit more about Samarkand before moving on to Tashkent.  We stayed in a crazy hotel - the Hotel Furkat has the distinction of being Samarkand's only B&B, though I think Fawlty Towers (including a resident Basil) would be nearer the mark!  The room that I was in had the  most wonderful new wash hand basin in pink plastic with the best tap ever, I want one (and there will be an opportunity to see a picture of it when I load up the pictures.  There was a joy stick in the middle of a circular glass disk.  When the joy stick was twiddled water poured over the glass disk into the basin.  However this whole effect was somewhat spoiled by the fact that when the couple in the room above used their shower our shower tray filled up with sand.  However Mr. Furkat was unfazed when told this and just said "no problem" which was the solution to most difficulties at the Hotel Furkat!  

And here it is.............
 



















..... in all its glory!!!!



















However the breakfast room, under Russian army surplus camoflage so we would not get accidentally strafed, made up for all the "no problems" open sided on the very top of the building with wonderful views over the city - so for that alone I would recommend a stay there.   5 of the group had had to go to Tashkent a day early to sort out Chinese visas (fortunately all successful) so I was responsible for all their bags being loaded onto Archie.   The bag loader employed to shift our bags into a car to take to Archie had obviously had a stroke.  I started piling the bags up ready to take downstairs and poor man each time he thought that he had taken all the bags I had added another one from the pile in my room.  I felt so sorry for him, but yet again it was "no problem"  But then came the real problem as Archie had been parked away from the hotel and was being allegedly "looked after" when we tried to drive away Archie would not move.  Somebody had nicked 500 litres of diesel!  And finding replacement diesel took ages as only about 1:6 garages stock it and we kept turning up at garages only to find that their pumps were empty.  There was obviously a diesel shortage in Uzbekistan that day - and who knows - maybe we bought back our own diesel!
Anyway we arrived in Tashkent in good time to have a look around later that afternoon.  And yes, we did meet the French party again - some of them though not the "yurt 6" were staying at our hotel - and what is more one of them knew my cousin who lives in France!!! Her grandson had been at school with my cousin's son (and my 1st cousin once removed).  How's that for serendipity - I go to Uzbekistan and not only do I find someone who lives in the same town as my cousin but actually knows her!  
Tashkent is the most amazing city.  It has the most beautiful metro of any city I have been to - and a really neat way of being able to get round the metro without a map - though a map helps - I liked the station with the portraits or perhaps one should say pictures of all the astronauts and they include Uleg Beg which just gives it a lovely inclusive feeling.  But there is another station which has decorated domes - but unfortunately no photos as this is a finable offence.   Tashkent is a city of contrasts.  In the centre full of people dressed in the latest fashions and all very up to date.  But you only have to go to the outskirts to find cows tethered by the side of the road or men trotting about on donkey carts.  But I really like Tashkent - it is a city with a good feel and people are so helpful and friendly.  Today I was shown the way to the Decorative Arts Museum by a woman sweeping the street - literally with a twig broom - in such a kind way.  The museum was hard to find because it was down a residential street but when I got there is was well worth the difficulities finding it.  Full of local art and crafts - some 19th/20th C but also some really modern things as well.  And this evening I went to the ballet to see The Corsair - danced by the Uzbek National Ballet - that was an experience and a half.  The scenery was stunning and the prima ballerina taking the part of Medora was as light as a feather and a very good dancer with brilliant gesture and facial expression.  So  this visit to Tashkent has only been a taster.  I would love to come back to Uzbekistan and be here for a bit longer.  So over and out for the present and look forward to catching up with this at the next internet stop.

Statue of Amir Timur in the main square

Amir Timur with a couple of foot soldiers!

Spice stall - Chorsu Bazaar

Our very kind and unofficial guide round Tashkent


1 comment:

  1. Hi Suzie

    I am still keeping up with your blog- you describe it all so well, I can almost smell the air, taste the food, and feel the journey with my elbow! i wish i was with you- have a great time- keep wll, keep safe and looking forward to your next blog!

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